October 2019

Traveling for a year with everything you might need to work and live on your back gets exhausting.  So most of you are going to say, “Well, I could have told you that Kathleen!”. It’s not that I didn’t carefully think this through… it’s that the reality of this lifestyle is much different than the travel bloggers lead you to believe.  

Many of you have commented on how I am “living the dream” – and I definitely am living MY dream.  But today, I thought I would give you an idea of what some of my challenges are – and I think many, if not most of you would say, “that is NOT my idea of travel”! 

When I asked my employer if I could work remotely from Europe (because I already had been working remotely while sitting in my office in Kentucky), he was very supportive and gave me lots of good tips for being successful.  However, at that time, my plan was to house sit for extended periods of time and stay close to members of my church and be immersed in their communities and families.  That is the piece that has not worked out.  Instead, in order to stay within my daily budget, I have been staying in hostels and airbnb’s.  

While hostels are safe and great places to meet other travelers, they are noisy (both day and night).  You are often in bunk rooms with 8-10 other people who come in at all hours of the night and leave early in the morning to catch their tours, busses and planes.  You can imagine all of the noise involved with packing up, showering etc.  None of this makes for a good night’s sleep.  

Airbnb’s are great.  I love staying with families in their homes in particular.  Single, private rooms and baths are usually the norm for me here.  What a luxury a bath can be after sharing a tiny bathroom with 7 other women!    Here, I have a kitchen in which to cook, and the use of strong, steady wifi and a quiet place to work. The draw back here is that if you are in an Airbnb alone – it can be quite lonely.  Most of these locations are not central in the city (due to expense) and I often get isolated in a suburb without good public transportation or available groceries.

There are limits to the number of days you can stay in either hostels or airbnb’s due to previously scheduled guests, so I find myself moving around much of the time – usually every 3-4 days.  The effort it takes to find new accommodations, locate the correct bus, rail or walking route, and finding secure storage for my belongings while I wait for check in/out times is staggering.  Not to mention the intermittent wifi.  There are days when all of my decision making brain cells are used up by 10:00am!

Laundry is another issue entirely.  As I have previously described, doing a load of laundry is nothing like what we are used to in the US.  It is the single most time consuming activity I find myself involved in.  Because I can’t carry a drying rack with me, and most people don’t own dryers (tumblers), I always seem to have something drying and waiting to be repacked. I have only come across one self-serve laundry facility.  Most cities offer a drop off service and charge by the kilo which is very expensive – much like it would be in the states to have someone else do your laundry.

Then there are the little things like when my bluetooth mouse broke last week.  I can’t just order another one from Amazon and I am unable to have anything shipped to me (without and address). So far, I have been unable to locate a store that sells this item.  Or when I needed a one cent coin in Euros to blow dry my hair and all I had were coins in Pounds….. And haircuts in foreign countries are for an entirely different discussion! You never know what you are going to get.

Food is another constant challenge.  Unlike when I travel on vacation and have a budget for eating out at nice restaurants, much of my food has to be purchased in markets for a day or two at a time.  Storage and transportation of these items is also a challenge.  I find myself craving my daily salads that are not easy to find and that are very different here.  With Scotland and Ireland both being islands, fresh produce is flown in and very little is grown here.  However, that which is grown here (like strawberries) are delicious and have none of our pesticides or preservatives. Produce is expensive and often close to expiration in the stores.  The groceries do not stock the quantities that we have in the US because of spoilage.  So that means a whole different way of eating.  Which is okay and part of why I came.  But I am still trying to figure out good solutions while always on the move. 

Now, here is the good news… There are many benefits to this lifestyle as well!  First of all, I don’t have to make my bed, or wash the sheets, or do many dishes, or clean bathrooms or anything! Those of you who know me, know that that is a welcome break.

My friend Lisa warned me about some of these feelings.  She said, “Six weeks in is the transition from vacationer to traveler…If you don’t get a little depressed about now, it would be strange.  So, when it hits, know it means you are doing it right!” I am so grateful for the encouragement I have had from my friends and family along this journey.

And I want to thank my friend Becky who sent me that meme that opened this blog.  It came at a point in my travels when I needed it most.  As it turns out, you can search the world over, but those that travel with you in your heart are the most meaningful discoveries of all.

Glenfinnan Viaduct – Harry Potter Bridge

October 4-6, 2019

Recognize this bridge?  Who wouldn’t want to ride on the train that travels over the viaduct that the Harry Potter series made famous?  It was so beautiful! In fact, the entire train ride from Mallaig to Glasgow is magnificent.  That is an adventure for your bucket list for sure.

I’m getting ahead of myself.  After crossing the ferry over the turbulent waters, I arrived in the port city of Mallaig.  I stayed in the Mission Bunkhouse which was just outside of the ferry dock and immediately across the street from the train station that I needed the next morning.  Being such a prime location could have lent itself to a very rundown or expensive lodging.  However, much to my surprise and delight, it was excellent! It was very clean, very quiet and the woman who managed the property was delightful.  It was a perfect location to ride out the residue of the hurricane that had become nothing more than a long night of storms.  

By morning, the rain had all cleared and I was able to explore the tiny fishing town before boarding the train.

The ride from Mallaig to Ft. Williams is famous and tickets should be bought in advance.  The country side is magical and something straight out of Harry Potter’s adventures (Hogwart’s Express).  People come from all over the world to watch the train go over the viaduct. 

They stand  at the bottom of the bridge and wait to photograph the train as it crosses the bridge.  The train only comes by twice a day.  It is the longest concrete bridge in Scotland and crosses the river Finnan.

I arrived in Glasgow and wished Airbnb had indicated that my 15 minute walk was going to be all uphill and my lodging was on the 3rd floor! I stayed in the home of a single woman named Maria who was a student from Italy.  She was kind and I would have liked to stay longer than on night but she was booked for the weekend.  

I was hoping to find a place to rest and watch our church’s General Conference on Saturday and Sunday.  I need strong consistent wifi and was hoping to find a place to unpack and do some laundry.  I found an amazing home just outside of Glasgow.

However, after finding my way to the main train station (different from the one I arrived at the day before), I found myself in completely unfamiliar territory and was quite overwhelmed.

I imagine it was something similar to what visitors to a US airport for the first time must feel.  There were SO MANY trains leaving from so many different platforms.  As I looked around, I initially couldn’t begin to determine where my train was leaving from or how to buy the right ticket.  I did eventually figure it out and when I arrived at my airbnb, the owner – Peter – was working in England over the weekend and I had the home to myself for three days.  

What a welcomed respite! The bed was the best of my trip so far and with its many down pillows and down comforter, I spend much of my three days beneath the duvet.  Peter was recently widowed and when he did return, was wonderful company.  We had many meaningful conversations and discussions about faith, eternal families and hope.  I ended up staying several more days as I was very fatigued.  

I do not enjoy the big cities as much as the quiet neighborhoods. I prefer to get to know the people and integrate into their way of life.  Peter’s home was the first one that had a “tumbler” or dryer for clothing.  However, they are not used like they are in the US.  They are only used infrequently and most things are dried on a drying rack like the one he had that could be lowered from the ceiling of his laundry room.  

Once I had stopped for a few days, my body took advantage of the down time and promptly got sick.  Upon hearing this, my friend Gill invited me to return to Edinburgh to rest and recover.  How grateful I was to have a friend come to my rescue! Changing locations and carrying the weight of my packs every day is taxing.  The stress of trying to locate a good wifi signal so I can work takes a tremendous amount of energy.  So I spent much of October back in Edinburgh resting up and enjoying the people and city I have come to love so much. 

September 30-October 4, 2019

I stayed in Inverness on Saturday to do laundry and to get caught up on work.  There was only one laundry mat in town and it was crowded.  The hotels and Airbnb’s send their sheets out to be laundered as well.  I loved this cool sheet ironing machine.  My mother needs one of these!  

I also wanted to scout out where the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter Day Saints Sunday services were held.  It was a 15 minute walk and I wanted to be sure I knew the way in case it was raining the next day.  It was located in a beautiful part of town along the river. 

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However, much to my frustration, the building was being renovated and the services had been moved to a neighboring town that I was unable to get to with public transportation on Sunday.  

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I was deeply disappointed.  I had specifically stayed in Inverness because there was an LDS congregation.  I am feeling such a loss of community and connection with my church family.  I am surprised how it has affected me.  My original plan was to stay close to the LDS congregation for accommodation and companionship, but that has not worked out at all.  Early in my trip, I felt uplifted and edified with all of our temple visits, but I am beginning to feel the drag of the world and the loss of my ward family.  I have a very deep faith and have other resources, but I will have to change my daily routines in order to begin each day with the Spirit as my companion.

However, I did find an amazing walk along the River Ness.  That path in front of the church led up and down the river and I walked for almost two hours enjoying the beautiful Fall day and the sounds of the water with small falls all along the way.  

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There are many electric car stations here in Scotland and often they are occupied.  There is such an emphasis on clean energy, recycling and reducing waste.  I am not exaggerating when I say that there is not a zip lock bag to be found here! Lol. Plastic bags are not provided at grocery stores – everyone brings their own cloth bags.  Some stores have a few but charge for them.  Paper towels and napkins are not used in homes or restaurants.  Cloth replaces both.  Homes do not have plastic wrap or sandwich bags.  Reusable containers are used instead or fabric sleeves to cover bowls in the refrigerator.  This way of thinking is such a difference from what I am used to!  It is causing me to rethink everything.  My plastic compression bags have split now after 7 weeks on the road, and the zip lock bags I brought for storage have already worn out and torn.  I am finding new solutions as I watch my Scotland friends do their part to reduce their footprint.

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On my last night in Inverness, I met a wonderful group of travelers in my hostel.  Two of the men were in their 30’s and were long-time friends on a fishing holiday.  One of the women was from Germany with an amazing voice and the fourth, a young woman from Italy attending the University.  All were musicians.  The men played piano, guitar and harmonica.  The women sang and used a Tamborine that we found at the hostel.  What a wonderful night! We stayed up late, playing and singing Billy Joel, The Beetles, Johnny Cash, John Denver and many more oldies.  The common language was English and interestingly, everyone knew all of the lyrics to many songs.  That night was the very reason I love to stay in hostels.  What fun we had together!

The next morning, I walked the hill to the clanging of Church bells ringing out over the city.  I returned to St. Stephen’s Church that Wendy and I had found earlier in the week, and once again, it was The Church of Scotland that welcomed me with a warm welcome and open arms.  The church had a beautiful pipe organ and the old pews reminded me of the pews in the original Kirkland temple.  I enjoyed the service so much and found comfort in the words of the unfamiliar hymns.

“Follow with reverent steps the great example of him whose holy work was doing good; So shall the wide earth seem our Father’s temple, each loving life a psalm of gratitude.”

Monday morning I boarded a bus for the long ride to the Isle of Skye on the very western coast of Scotland.  I had heard so much about the amazing landscape and beauty of this very remote location.  Well, it turned out to be remote indeed!

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My hostel was a basecamp for mountaineering. Yikes – was I ever out of place.  It was filled with 20 something, fit, strong young men from all over the world who were there with their gear to climb the highest mountains in Scotland, the Cullins.

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I found myself very isolated in the small town of Broadwater without regular bus service.  (That part wasn’t in the brochure either!). I traded the owner of the hostel photography services for the use of a pair of boots and a coat.  Yes, I can be resourceful when I have to.  Lol. It was freezing and I did not have the right clothing for the change in altitude.  

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I spend two days logging lots of hours at work and wandering the streets of this tiny town.  I did however, find some treasures.  The blackberries and raspberries (known to locals as “brambles) were fully ripe and were found along every road and pathway.  I stopped many times a day to enjoy these amazing fresh berries.  

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The flowers were in full bloom and being a coastal town, it was picturesque and beautiful.  However, I was very limited without any real access to busses and without a vehicle, I felt very isolated and somewhat stranded. 

I ended up leaving a day early (when I could catch a bus) and moved to the central city of Portree, which was much better for me with banks, grocery stores and transportation options. 

I had a great hostel here in Portree and enjoyed the amazing large kitchen and work spaces.  However, strong, reliable Wifi continues to be a major problem for me working remotely.  I cannot even describe how much time and energy I spend each day trying to secure a reliable line.

From Portree, I was able to book an all day tour around the island to all of the famous hikes and views.  THIS is what I had come to Scotland to see.  I enjoyed every minute of the 9 hour tour.  It took me to majestic waterfalls, beautiful vistas, isolated cliffs and long hikes through the mountains.  I was so glad that I didn’t miss this amazing day.  

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Hurricane Lorenzo was looming near Ireland and was threatening Skye.  All week I had been watching the weather and my tour day was the last beautiful day for quite a while.  I decided to leave the island before the remnant of the storm hit.  I took a bus to the ferry at Mallaig and found out that the scheduled ferry was cancelled due to high winds and waves.  After a 3 hour delay, the port authority brought in a heavy freighter ferry and moved us backpackers across the channel. 

It was quite a week of readjustments, and improvisations to say the least.  However, I learned a lot about pre-planning and will be very careful in the future, to check the exact location of my accommodations since being on foot with a 32 pound pack on my back, and a 15 pound pack on my front can be very challenging to walk the often many blocks to my accommodations for the night.

September 25-29, 2019

Before leaving my new friend Gill’s home, I made a quick trip around the block with my camera to photograph her church (Church of Scotland) and the grounds of the Liberton Kirkyard. 

The ancient ivy that threatened to engulf every wall and window of this magnificent building, was beginning to turn red with the changing season.  It was truly incredible to behold.

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I then met up with my friend and family member, Wendy, who was leading a quilting tour through Edinburgh and Scotland.  My son and her daughter married each other and Wendy and I share two of our precious grandchildren.  

She had offered to share her hotel room for a few days while we were both in Edinburgh.  I was able to join the tour and meet the amazing women from my home town who shared the same love of fabric and quilting.  Each day we had tours of fabric stores in the nearby town.  We had the opportunity to appreciate the many beautiful plaids and textiles of Scotland.  These shops were tiny and surprisingly, not owned by Scottish nationals.  

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Wendy and I tried fresh figs from the outdoor market, watched artists as they sketched the beautiful  cathedrals and street scenes with charcoal from high above the city, and we visited the National Museum of Scotland to learn more of the local history.  There we saw the Millennium clock with the 12 evils of humanity.  

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We toured the Holyrood Castle and Abby.  The castle is used today by the Royal Family when they are in Scotland.  We were able to tour the rooms, but couldn’t take photographs.  We did see Meghan Markle’s wedding dress and it was exquisite in person.  The veil was hand embroidered and took over 4 months with 40 + white-gloved seamstresses working on it every day.  Flowers from both the US, UK/ Scotland were represented. 

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The Abby was in ruins but had a wonderful, powerful feeling.  It was easy to imagine what it might have been like in the 1500’s when it was one of the most impressive monasteries in Scotland.

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It was quite a luxury to move into an elegant hotel after staying in hostels for many weeks. There were over 100 men and women from Spain in the lobby one night, dressed for an award ceremony.  They were wearing kilts from the clans they represented.  In Scotland, the men wear kilts (as common as US men wear suits) and the women wear matching plaid sashes.

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The food has been fabulous.  There are a lot of fresh vegetables available in the local markets as well as fresh baked bread of every kind imaginable each morning.  I had my first pizza which was fabulous!  Very light crust, mild sauce and fresh mozzarella, “rocket” which are greens and pine nuts.  

However, stay away from the Ginger Beer (inspiration for Butter Beer in Harry Potter series).  It tastes like drinking the dressing at Fuji’s! And don’t attempt the Rose Lemon-aide either… Wendy said it reminded her of drinking rose soap!

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However, the fish and chips are fabulous – especially when they come with impromptu fiddle playing! It exceeded every expectation I had of sitting in a Scottish pub!

Traveling with quilters had it’s benefits for sure.  We learned a new quilting technique at a cute fabric shop in Perth and each of us got to take our samples with us.  Now I am a traveling backpacker who has her quilting project to work on during my train rides! It doesn’t get any better than that.

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The highlight of this week was our tour of the Sheepdog Farm.  There we saw a demonstration from a shepherd who works a Laird’s (owner) estate.  There were 3000 sheep and he uses border collies to manage the sheep. 

The shepherd controls the dogs, and the dogs control the sheep.  There were two working dogs, each 14 weeks old.  The dogs watch the older dogs and learn to respond to both a whistle and then voice commands.  Each dog has a unique whistle and set of commands and they only respond to their individual calls. 

I wish I could post the video because it was absolutely amazing to watch the dogs and how they responded.  There were also 27 day old puppies that we got to hold, who will be working in just a few short weeks.  

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We were offered the chance to sheer the sheep.  We used metal hand sheers.  The underbellies were so soft and clean, while the outer wood was rough and dirty.  The sheep were very submissive to the shepherd and interestingly, made no sound at all when being herded by the dogs.  Even though they were afraid of the dogs – and climbed on top of each other to avoid them – they never made a sound.  I was so surprised.  I thought they would have been bleating from fear, but all you could hear was the sound of the shepherd’s whistles and the pounding of hooves.  Even the dogs didn’t need to bark.  It was so interesting! 

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The shepherd only makes 1 pound ($1.25) per sheep for their wool.  It is no longer profitable.  The puppies will sell for 400 pounds if they are female and 300 if they are male.  The females are more responsive and easier to train.  Although the shepherd lives on the land rent free, he must supplement his income by doing tours.

We also enjoyed a tour of Johnston’s Mill in Elgin where they process fiber into the finest cashmere in Scotland.  It was a noisy plant, but very interesting as we watched the wool being combed, sorted, spun and refined.

Sheep and highland cows are everywhere.  Along the roads, in the tiny towns and along the mountains and hillsides.  Heather grows all along the hillside.  The blooms fade in September and are nearly gone.  They are normally a beautiful pink/purple and cover every hillside during the summer.  Historically, the heather was used for bedding, thatch roofs and feed for grouse.  

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We stayed in Inverness.  There we explored the oldest church in Scotland.  St. Stephen’s Old High Church of Scotland.  A place of worship has been on the property since 565!  The antique clock dates to 1770 and the bells still ring each Sunday morning calling all of the worshipers to the top of the hill.  

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We found lots of sweets here.  Authentic gelato – white chocolate.  Yum.  We stumbled upon a candy store and thought how much our grandchildren would love it, although it would be very hard to make up their minds with so many choices!

Another highlight of the week was our trip to Loch Ness to find Nessie the Loch Ness Monster.  Wendy found him and got a great shot! 

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Loch means Lake.  Loch Ness is 720 feet deep.  It is fresh water and the deepest loch in Scotland. It is 22 miles long and the water is very cold year around at 6 degrees Celsius.

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I am taking photos of some of my favorite signs that we don’t see in the US.  This week this one wins the prize!  What do you think it means?

No loading at any time! Lol Don’t know where the hearts come it.

At this point, I said goodbye to my new friends as they moved on in their tour towards Ireland.  I still had so much of Scotland that I wanted to see yet and chose to stay behind.  I immediately felt the loss of my friend Wendy and so wished that we could have traveled on together.  Perhaps later on in this journey.

September 18-24, 2019

What an amazing beginning to my journey!  I left Denver at 10pm and flew all night to London.  My flight had been delayed 3 hours and I missed my connecting flight.  They booked me on the next flight into Edinburgh and I arrived at 8pm with all my luggage and lots of adrenaline-induced enthusiasm.  

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I took the tram for $10 into town and because my hot spot was not working, I had no idea which stop to get off on or how to find the hostel that I had booked.  Here is where I was first introduced to Scottish kindness and it could not have been more appreciated.  With the help of many people, I found my hostel and collapsed into bed – exhausted from 24 hours of travel on very little food or sleep.

I awoke to sunny skies and was finally able to see the city in which I had landed.  My room had a direct view of the castle.  I was staying in the Grassmarket area of Old Town Edinburgh.  I had not slept well and had severe leg cramps due to dehydration and inactivity on the plane.  I did not feel well at all. 

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I worked all morning but only toured the immediate block where I was staying before going back to bed hoping to feel better.

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By Friday, I was feeling like myself again and excited to explore the city.  I toured the castle, walked the streets for hours and connected with one of my contacts from 5W (Women Welcome Women World Wide). 

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I met Gillian in the late afternoon for a tour of the city and dinner.  We had an immediate connection and had a marvelous time together.  She is a single, retired social worker with many interests including, pottery, art, sewing, walking and choir. 

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We had dinner at a tiny little French restaurant with 6 or 7 tables that required reservations.  We had the best fish I have ever eaten! It was sea bass with fresh fennel (the vegetable, not the spice) and a sauce that had the most interesting combination of flavors.  We had mushroom soup, green beans and potatoes, all of which were absolutely wonderful.

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Gill (pronounced Jill) invited me to stay with her for 2 days at her flat (apartment) outside the city.  80% of Scottlanders live in this type of housing due to housing space restrictions. I took the city bus (which is excellent in Edinburgh) about 25 minutes to a rural area right outside of town. The bus stopped right outside of a tiny market next door to her flat. She had a lovely home which she generously opened freely to me.  Most flats have garden areas that include washing lines.  Very few have “tumblers” or dryers in their homes.  The washing machines are small and located in their kitchens. 

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The refrigerators are also smaller than in the states and are built into the cabinetry which make them camouflaged in the kitchen.  We became fast friends – enjoying long walks in the countryside, fixing our meals together, shopping at the tiny market just down from her flat and sharing stories from our life experiences.

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She invited me to join her on Saturday while she taught women to sew and make fabric shopping bags to replace the plastic ones that are being phased out.  I had a wonderful day with these amazing ladies with service minded hearts.  She introduced me to a community organization called Bridgend Farmhouse where they focus on learning, working and growing together as a community.  The served homemade leek and potato soup to the volunteers and I so enjoyed making new friends.

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The highlight of my week was when she invited me to join her Monday, Women’s walking group.  Every Monday, 8-10 women who have been friends for years, alternate planning a 5-9 mile walk somewhere in the city or surrounding area.  They walk rain or shine – sleet or snow.  Gill says there are no bad weather days, only bad clothing choices!

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Gill coordinated this week’s walk along the coast.  We hiked 6 miles through a bird watching preservation, over bridges, along grassy steep hills, though the water on the beach and though small towns.  It was a perfect day.  

The next day we spent at Newhailes House and Gardens.  We had traveled along the coast, but upon arriving discovered that it was closed for a moth infestation.  Strange.  There are very few pests here in Scotland.  With the exception of “midges” which are tiny mosquito-like biting flies that come out in the summer, there are no bugs.  In fact, there are no screens on any of the windows in Scotland.  There is also no air-conditioning in any home or building, so the windows are open all the time.  

There is a fruit that comes from a Chestnut tree that the children play games with called a “Conker fruit”.  We changed our plans and went to a tea room that was part of a very large garden nursery.  She thought it was very small, but it was much larger than our nurseries in Oldham or Henry county.  I experienced my first “High Tea”.  It was wonderful.  They brought our choice of herbal tea with scones and small ham and cheese sandwiches.  The cheese was a white cheddar and the ham was more like country ham with a tiny bit of butter instead of mayonnaise.  Gill explained that they only use mayonnaise in salads, never on sandwiches. 

We changed our plans and headed to Preston Mill where we toured East Lothian’s last working water-driven working mill. The machinery that turned grain from local farms into oatmeal and animal feed is still preserved here. Parts of the building date back to the 17th century.

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I also had my first view of Highland Cattle or Highland Coo as they are called.  Unfortunately, I was not aware of these animals, and when we passed on in the car, I exclaimed, “Look! A Yak!” – Gill got a good laugh at that.  They look like Yak’s with their long hair that hangs in their eyes, but they are the famous, hearty cattle of the Scottish Highlands. 

Everyone speaks English with a heavy accent but it is not difficult to understand unless they speak very fast .  However, it does take some concentration because many of the words they use are different from ours in the US.  Here are a few I have run across this week.

Kirk = Scottish church

Kirkyard – Grave yard – usually part of the church grounds

Loch = Lake

Close = Alley

September 18, 2019

Lead Kindly light…

Keep Thou my feet; I do not ask to see

The distant scene; one step enough for me

Anna and I spent the week visiting old friends and making new ones in the Provo and Salt Lake City area.  Everyone was so generous with their time and opened their homes to us as we stayed for a day or in some places two.  How grateful I was to be included in their family routines, dinner meals and the ability to snuggle with their pets.  I am missing my own puppy so much!

We returned to Rexburg to check Anna into school.  One of her roommates had stayed through the summer and let us move in to the apartment early.  Wow, was that helpful!  We were able to unload her things from the storage unit and she had time to unpack and hang things in her room without the usual rush and craziness of move-in day for everyone.  It was a great experience.

We went to the Idaho Falls Temple on Saturday and then church together on Sunday before she took me to the bus.  It was another hard goodbye.  I am going to miss my travel companion so much! It has been a wonderful three weeks and we have made memories for a lifetime.

I traveled back to Salt Lake City and stayed with my sweet friend Katherine and her family overnight.  She drove me to the airport on Monday and I flew to Denver, Colorado.  My plane ticket from SLC to Scotland would have been $2,700.  However, by flying to Denver on a $39 Frontier Flight and then staying over until Tuesday, I was able to book a fare from Denver to Scotland for $550 instead.  Love being able to be flexible! 

My friend John (from my childhood) and his wife Peggy live in the mountains outside of Denver.  They offered their time and home to me during my layover.  It is one of my favorite places and it was so wonderful to return to the mountain I love and soak in the views and the quiet.  I so appreciated the opportunity to catch up after many years, the hike and the amazing meal.  

However, as I said goodbye to my friends and prepared to leave the United States, a bit of panic set in.  As I waited for my overnight flight to depart, I started to question my decision.  What had I done?  Would I be able to handle all of the logistics on my own? Would I be safe? …and a thousand other concerns.

And then I remembered ~ I am not the first to do this.  I am not some explorer like Columbus.  There are hundreds of people successfully living this very same lifestyle and there are maps, and the internet, etc.   And even though, I personally have never done this – I have prayed about this extensively and feel confident that this is my next step in my life’s journey.

God promises a lamp unto our feet, not a crystal ball into the future.  We do not need to know what will happen tomorrow.  He isn’t going to let me see the distant scene either – so I don’t know why I bother looking for it.  I only need to remember that He leads me and I will find grace when I need it. I am going to leave tomorrow’s problems until tomorrow and focus on watching for all of the ways in which he has prepared a way for me today – and embrace them with a grateful heart!

September 5-7, 2019

WANDERLUST n. A very strong desire to travel and explore the world

Wanderlust.  Yup, that’s my diagnosis.  There was a sign over my bed at the home we stayed in this week.  It describes my feelings perfectly.  

We returned to Nelson, BC – making a full circle through the region.   We loved our time in Nelson.  We stayed at a wonderful hostel where Anna met a young woman whose mother works as an editor for Ken Burns.  She and Anna became quick friends and when she learned that Anna was interested in film production, she called her mother, who then offered Anna an internship over the winter break.  What an amazing opportunity that would be!

With a bit of down time, I was able to get caught up on work and we had a chance to get to know the area better.  We did a lot of walking in town.  In Canada, there are so many bright, hanging baskets filled with flowers in bloom.  They are on every street and they are massive and so beautiful.  We found a favorite coffee shop that had fresh scones each morning.  We did some shopping and Anna bought herself a Celtic ring which she loves.   We stopped at an outdoor Mediterranean cafe and laughed when we were seated next to a life-sized statue of a black panther! The universe can have such a sense of humor. (See previous post – Halfway Hot Springs)

As we left Canada and headed South into Montana, I felt a real sadness, wondering how long ~ if ever ~ it would be before I returned to this amazing country.  Would it be in my lifetime?  I certainly hope so.  There was so much I enjoyed about my time here and so much I wasn’t able to see yet.  

We chose to stay in Missoula, Montana only because it was just about half way to Provo.  I have never had any desire to go to Missoula and I was in for such a nice surprise!  We booked a random Airbnb on Rattlesnake Drive (yikes!) with a woman named Flannery.  I pictured and old woman living up in the dusty mountains surrounded by snakes, but what we found was an energetic, creative, eccentric, 30 something young woman who lived alone in a very large home in the mountains that she was renovating herself.  It was so lovely and her love for Missoula was contagious!  

She generously shared information about her town, the history, why she loved it and recommended many things to do.  Our room was very large and comfortable and she generously offered the rest of her home for us to use and enjoy.  

We got up early the next morning before continuing our drive to walk the hills outside her house.  While we were out, we met one of her neighbors walking her GOATS! Haha. Nothing unusual for this mountain lady.

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We headed into town at the recommendation of Flannery to the best Farmer’s Market I have ever attended.  Immediately, the sights and smells assaulted us as we crossed the large bridge and approached the market.  There were literally hundreds of vendors.  60% were selling fresh, organic fruits and vegetables, as it was the height of harvest season here.  Huckleberries were ripe and delicious and sold in 5 pound bags for making jams and jellies.  The other vendors included, soap makers, carvers, potters and fresh flower vendors.  There was live music at every turn ~ mostly college students playing for change.  There were many food vendors as well.  Not your average American food, but very international, authentic foods.  Anna purchased a tamale (see photo) and I had a breakfast burrito with egg and veggies and potato.  The day was brilliant blue.  We sat on a grassy park area and ate while we watched the people and thought about our friend Chelsey and her mission in this amazing place.  

It was such an enjoyable morning.  We purchased a large bunch of dried lavender to take to our next host and as we pulled out of town, I thought how wonderful it would be to live here.  As it turned out, Rattlesnake Drive was named for the road that leads up from the “S” shaped river that runs through the center of Missoula.  Incidentally, there are no rattlesnakes on Rattlesnake Drive. Just majestic pines towering high above the many rivers that wind through the city.  I thought of my brother and his son Joseph and how much they would enjoy the fly fishing here.  

Our time in Missoula, Montana reminded me why the spirit of Wanderlust is so satisfying.

Wednesday, September 4

“There’s no place, like this place, near this place, so this must be the place.” Sign at Halfway Hot Springs

So I have a story to tell, that will be one of those that Anna and I retell at Thanksgiving dinner for years to come….

After spending the day at Revelstoke on edge because of the Grizzly Bear activity, we headed south to a little known hot springs – halfway between Revelstoke and Nelson, BC.  Although it is a providential park, it is not visited by many tourists and is a local’s hangout.  We were told it was down a dirt road, but worth the drive.

We found the turn off easily enough, but then realized that the dirt road was 11 Kilometers long and full of pot holes and was in very bad condition.  It was about 5 pm and we considered turning around because of the long, uncomfortable ride in.  However, we forged ahead and reached a deserted parking lot.  There were two cars, but otherwise we were well into the woods and had not seen any other people.  

We got out of the car and looked down over the edge of the cliff.  There below were stairs descending to what we assumed were the hot springs.  It was steep and getting dark.  We hesitated, but then decided we had come this far, we would at least go see what they looked like.  We estimate that there were approximately 500 stairs to the bottom.  We could hear the water rushing and it kept encouraging us to go on.  Finally, we reached the bottom. 

There was a small area with a changing room and several hot pools that had been formed with rocks.  The area was deserted, but very beautiful.  We tried all of the pools.  Just like in the Goldilocks story… Some were too hot, some were too cold, and some were just right.  We floated, relaxed and enjoyed the pools. Then, off in the distance, we noticed a group of 4-6 people sitting in the river.  

As it turned out, there was a river with run off from a glacier where the water was ice cold and another stream where the steaming hot water (too hot to touch) was flowing out of the rocks.  At the point were the two met, a large pool was formed with both warm and cool water.  We joined the group, introduced ourselves, found a seat and enjoyed the conversation with people from all over the country.  It was a wonderful reward for the long drive and hike down to the pools.  We were so glad we had come.  

Around 7:15pm it was getting dark and I didn’t want to drive that deserted road in the dark, so we said goodbye and began the long climb back up the steps.  About 10 minutes into our ascent, Anna (who is about 6 steps ahead of me) turns around and screams at me to RUN!!  She grabs my shoulders, physically turns me around and pushes me down the steps I had just worked so hard to climb!  I said, what is wrong?  She said she had seen a big black cat leaping over the moss covered rocks and she was headed our way!  I said, “a cat? Like a kitty?”  She replied, NO! Like a panther! YIKES – I went flying down those stairs.  

As you can imagine, the adrenaline is now screaming through my veins and I am trying to think what to do if a panther is chasing you.  I know how to react if a bear is chasing you, but all I can think is that I cannot outrun a panther!  I am SO scared.  At one point, Anna turns around and looks behind her only to report that she can now see the cat’s teeth and black tail bounding straight for us.  I cannot describe my feelings at this point.  I cannot believe I didn’t have a heart attack or wet my pants right then and there.  All I can think is that I need to get behind Anna so the cat will attack me first – she is younger and faster and has a chance to get away.  It was then that the “panther” landed on the trail beside us and as she brushed up beside me, we realize that she is in fact not a black panther, but a black Labrador retriever who is not on a leash and who has outrun her owners down the path!  A dog. Seriously.

Now, I cannot breathe (probably from running at top speed down through the rocks and mud).  I am laughing, and practically crying with relief and so very grateful that the dog was not in fact a panther.  My blood pressure must have sky rocketed because I now have a killer headache and I feel like I am going to throw up.  And this feeling continued for hours as we drove back down the dirt road – in the dark – and returned to the mountain road that took us on into Nelson. 

And for future reference, just incase you want to visit Halfway Hot Springs someday… there are no black panthers in the mountains of British Columbia.

Wednesday, September 4

Tuesday night we stayed in an unusual hostel called “The Cube”.  It was a cross between a boutique hotel and a hostel.  The rooms were more like a small motel without a shower.  There were several private showers in a central area that the guests shared and a “living room”, kitchen and large eating area.  Like a hostel, you could keep your own food in the refrigerator and cook when you liked.  But, like a hotel, they provided waffles, juice etc for breakfast.  This however, was the first time on our trip that I was not completely comfortable with the level of cleanliness of our room and for those of you who know me, you can bet that I will not be staying in a “Cube” again.  

We woke up Wednesday morning eager to explore and hike the mountains surrounding the tiny town of Revelstoke.  Another glorious day in Canada!  We drove 30 minutes along switchbacks to reach the parking lot where we would hike to the summit. 

Even after more that a week in Canada, the altitudes were still taxing while hiking.  We were on high alert for bears as we had been given sufficient warnings over and over by the park rangers. 

I wish I could say that this was a carefree day ~ the truth is that while my eyes were wide open to the raw, untouched beauty of the landscape, the fact that we were so secluded and in the company of very few other people, only heightened my senses to the presence of predators in the area.  Anna and I sang and talked and clapped as we hiked, making sure the probability of coming face to face with a Grizzly was very low.   We met a family from Germany and enjoyed discussing the places we had been and hearing more about their country.  

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I was hoping.to see more wild flowers than we actually observed.  It should have been the peak season for them, but they were few and far between.  We reached the summit and found several ponds and lakes to explore.  We found trees that had long since lost their life, but still stood as the growing/decaying processes have very little time between the frigid cold that occupies much of the seasons.  We enjoyed reading about the native tribal inhabitants of the area and how they came to settle the Kootenay region of Canada.  

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Our new friends from Germany invited us to have “a coffee” with them at an overlook, but we had plans in Nelson for the night and a long drive ahead of us.  How is it that when you are on an adventure without a timetable that you don’t have time to sit and talk with new friends?  It didn’t seem right.  I found myself wishing I had a do-over.  I won’t make that mistake again. 

Tuesday, September 3

“In our journey through life, there are many things to learn, many friends to make and many adventures to be had. Enjoy every mile and every minute along the way!”

I worked all morning and we did laundry before leaving the hostel that we loved.  Before departing from Lake Louise, we went on a gondola ride, where we were able to view the mountains and the lakes we had hiked yesterday. Lake Louise can be seen just above the trees on the right in the photo above. Perspective is everything!

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We headed toward Revelstoke.  It is a tiny skiing/winter sport town that we had heard about from my brother and his family who love to ski.  For those of you wondering how our tiny cactus is doing… she is thriving and growing in the sunlight from the car’s dashboard! Lol

On the way we turned off at a waterfall that we saw advertised just outside of town.  We found ourselves following a long, winding road that want on for many miles.  At one point, we almost turned around.  It seemed like we were back on a main road or highway instead of a back road to a waterfall.  Thank goodness we persevered! What a gem we found.

I wish I could post the video from this waterfall.  It was magnificent! The water came from the nearby glacier and as we got closer on the path, the spray from waterfall was freezing cold and the mist sprayed our faces long before we even got close to the falls.  

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We had a picnic lunch by the river and enjoyed the quiet and solitude so much.  There were two rivers leading away from the waterfall.  One was crystal clear from the falls and the other one was white as milk.  The color is caused by run off silt from the second glacier.  The two rivers run side by side and then converge downstream.  We spent the day exploring and photographing and enjoying the landscape.  

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My favorite part of this lifestyle is that I have the chance to change my plans, explore a location that wasn’t on the plan and make amazing discoveries along the way.  I am so grateful to be traveling with my daughter and that we have this time together before she begins school again.  It has been precious for us both.